How to change the chain and sprockets on a T595/955i
The original Regina chain had started to develop some severe tight spots. When adjusting it to the correct tension at the
tightest point (35-40mm) there was more than double the slack at the loosest point. 14,500 miles was probably about
average for a chain so I can't complain about that. M&P accessories did a D.I.D gold X-ring
chain and sprocket set for about £110.00, 43 teeth rear, 18 teeth front. I also bought a chain breaker/riveter tool from
MPS which was £39.99. Probably expensive but it made the job easier so for that
I can't fault it.
Required Tools - some optional depending on how it goes, get 'em all if you want to be sure
Torque Wrench - (range to include 132Nm) This is semi optional I.e. I didn't use it
Chain breaker and riveter tool
Allen key for the rear sprocket (I can't remember the correct size)
The C-spanner from your Triumph tool kit
A new locktab - the special washer that folds down over the sprocket nut (semi optional)
A large socket to fit the front sprocket nut (sorry I can't be more specific, I borrowed a really old fork nut
tool from my neighbour that fitted)
A paddock stand is handy but not essential
Possibly a tommy bar and extension/scaffold bar (I managed without)
A mate/neighbour/wife/other (possibly not required depending on how it goes)
General tools - socket set, hammer, spanners, screwdrivers, pliers
Grinding wheel that fits into an electric drill or a decent file
Loctite - up to you really
Remove the front sprocket cover using an allen key. I have an allen key set that fits into a screwdriver which is just
long enough to be able to get at all of the bolts without having to remove the gear linkage. Use a screwdriver to lever up
the tabs on the locktab and push them back out of the way.
What you do now depends on what you are faced with. I was able to undo the nut with very little leverage, but this shouldn't
have been the case. I was expecting to have to get my girlfriend to sit on the bike with her foot on the rear brake and
then use the socket/tommy bar/extension bar combo to get the nut undone. Had I been faced with that I probably would
have soaked the nut with penetrating oil and left it overnight.
Just loosen the nut and then leave it in place for now.
Undo the hub pinch bolt and using the c-spanner from your Triumph tool kit slacken the chain right off.
Then use the grinder to take the top off of one of the chain link pins.
This is where the chain tool came in handy. It is shaped like a g-clamp except that the bottom of the clamp has a hole in
it which means that you can push the chain link pin through it. Now you can remove the chain.
Use an allen key and a socket/spanner to remove the rear sprocket and fit the new one. The nuts should be tightened to
33Nm, I just put a dab of loctite on them and did them up tight. Remove the front sprocket and fit the new one but don't
try and tighten it fully yet, do that after you've fitted the chain so that you can get some decent resistance by getting
someone to apply the rear brake.
Here you can see that the front sprocket teeth were hooked, although the rear sprocket didn't look too bad.
Fit the chain so that the open ends meet on the rear sprocket. Coat the pins of the connecting link with the grease
provided and connect the chain. Make sure that the pins point outwards and that you have put the 'X' (or 'O') rings on.
From the other side again fit the 'X' (or 'O') rings and then press on the metal link.
Now you will either need a riveting tool or a piece of metal with correctly spaced holes in it and a couple of pairs of
mole grips. The mole grips method works but it's a bugger to do, which is why I bought the chain tool. Use the chain tool
to push the metal outer over the link pins. DON'T PUT IT ON TOO FAR! As it will lock the link and you will have an immeadiate
Once the outer is fitted use the tool to splay the pins out to hold the outer on. Alternatively, if using the mole grips
method, get someone to hold a lump hammer to the back of the link pin while you use a hammer and punch to splay the pins.
Once the front sprocket nut has been tightened use a screwdriver and hammer to bend the locking tabs onto the nut
to stop it from coming undone. Put the sprocket cover on and then set the chain to the correct tension (35-40mm at loosest
point) and tighten the hub pinch bolt to 55Nm. Lightly lube the chain and go for a ride to warm the chain, then fully
lube the chain and leave it overnight to soak in/evaporate. Job done.
And if the wheels are filthy from chain lube/brake dust, polish them with furniture polish (e.g. Pledge). You will be amazed
at the results. Brings the end can up lovely too. For more handy tips like this check out the message board on